You are currently browsing the tag archive for the ‘friends’ tag.
Floating Market of the Mekong Delta
Theme song of the Day:
Noctuary - Bonobo
In a country so stricken by poverty, its hard to fathom how a shop that sells only large stuffed caterpillars can make a go of it. This is the complexity and contradictory simplicity that is Vietnam.
As we made our way through the maze-like waterways of the Mekong Delta we were struck by so many thoughts and feelings that seemed at odds with each other.
The Mekong Delta supports millions of people and it shows. We tried to hide our unintentional looks of disgust as the spray from the boat hit our faces.
Sunrise on the Mekong
There were people bathing, fishing, and trolling boats of various shapes and sizes along the river. The floating markets are hubs of activity – each boat hangs a sample of their wares from poles at the stern – a form of advertising. Women are a huge part of this important venture. It’s so hot and humid, they row their small boats, heavy with produce, up the waterway for hours, yet they look so put together. Many don silk suits and they all don looks of determination and pride. I would be proud.
We spent a few days in a small city called Can Tho before making our way to the coast. Rach Gia is home to the port that is home to the ferry system that takes people to the island of Phu Quoc.
Jill and Qua, On the Way to White Sand Dune!
It’s also the first place that I really felt my visible minority status. As we walked from the bus station to search out guesthouses children ran out to great us “hello, hello, English”….people stared; turning around to watch us pass. This doesn’t happen in cities as big as Saigon. In Vietnamese culture one is best to blend in. Standing out is undesirable. … but then, there is a novelty to us ‘big girls’…5’9”, both of us. My blond hair and freckles get a lot of looks.
I was stared down by the driver of one of our taxis, after I said hello. He looked at me as though I had just uttered a string of profanities regarding his family. I felt I had offended him in some way and I was feeling quite self-conscious. I sat quietly for the 20 minute drive. As we got out of the van to grab our bags, he mumbled shyly in very broken, quiet English…head down: “You are very beaut-i-ful”… I smiled inside and out – it’s so easy to misinterpret.
...
I am amazed by the way we are welcomed. We have made friends at every turn. Our waiters and motorbike drivers insist on giving us their phone numbers, writing out English words, helping us with our limited Vietnamese phrases, offering themselves as husbands (just joking…sort of). The people that can speak English are eager to practice.
I couldn’t help but expect a sort of underlying national animosity towards Westerners…North Americans in particular, after arriving in Vietnam. It would be so understandable; the recent history of this nation can’t be easily forgotten…can it? I wouldn’t think so. It shouldn’t be. But from what I’ve witnessed so far, it seems that for many, the horrific history is just that. History.
“There is no real pattern for this whole healing process. At every turn I find a new way to address a feeling or thought. It must be one of the most reflective times in my life. Learning new, honest and organic ways to sift through my emotions is an art-form that takes time and effort. I’m lucky to have these beautiful surrounding and people around me, to make it all a little easier.”
This is a paragraph that resonates with me. I take it from a post I wrote back in June (Down Time) and it is still relevant. I had just been released from the hospital and I’m sure the healing I was referring to had very little to do with my kidney.
As I get ready to fly to Vietnam, I have taken a few moments to skim through some of my older posts. It’s interesting to see how this journey has progressed. I have to admit: I don’t remember writing all that much of it. Once out there, the words have done their intended duty – they have punched the healing time-card. Looking back is something I don’t think I’ll make a habit of. ..not yet, at least.
After Tonga, I had a week or so in Melbourne. Catching up with old friends and making new ones – I kept busy and managed to meet some people heading west along the Great Ocean Road. Beautiful! The twelve apostles are a highlight. We had decent weather and it was entirely too cold to swim, but we did attempt whale-watching from the shores of Warnambool.
Adelaide is probably best described as delightful and easy; a planned-city makes for straight-forward navigation. The museum and art gallery were good hideouts during the rain. As the weather got better I made my way north to stay with a fabulous family. I spent time reading in front of the fire (pure luxury) and then got a chance to ride through the hills on the back of a bike! With the promise of more French food and good conversation,
I will definitely be making another stop in South Australia. Thanks friends!
Although Perth found me in my seventh time-zone in little less than a month, arriving here feels as close to coming home as I think possible. My plans to make a couple of small trips down south – they fell by the wayside as soon as I arrived. It’s too easy to be in beautiful North Beach, with my friends and my pseudo-routines…albeit I am in a tent in the backyard…but its home-like…in a breezy sort of way.
Western Australia is a place that is close to my heart. I think it’s interesting to look back on my last visit here, five months in the past. I was at a very, noticeably different place. As I gently peruse my current headspace, I can see the lengths at which I’ve travelled to get here…time zones notwithstanding.
Theme Song for the Day:
Iko Iko – The Dixie Cups
Where was I? right….
Froests of Eua
Tonga was a fantastic way to start my next adventure abroad. With the beauty of the natural surroundings and the incredibly friendly people, I couldn’t help but believe I had landed in paradise. I was so very comfortable and in jaw-dropping awe, at times (although I tried to keep my mouth closed, as I already stood out a bit), as I explored just a portion of this tiny oasis.
My comfort and feeling of belonging were a big deal. As confident as I am in knowing that ‘travel” is the right thing for me right now, I still face times of doubt (don’t we all?). There are times when thoughts swirl through my mind… what the hell am I doing? WHERE am I going – the middle of nowhere? Oh, right…! Who am I going to meet… anyone? Will I be exhausted…bored…or worse: indifferent? Should I be settling down? Am I too old for this? Too young? Too too too?..
[*note: these bigger thoughts are intermittently intertwined with thoughts of a slightly lighter inclination…: will there be coffee?…should I bring powdered milk? Should I have brought another pair of socks? How many times can I get away with wearing this shirt before I start turning away potential friends? Is it too early for a beer?]
Uh, yes, I digress. Anyway…I had explored most of the main island of Tonga: Tongatapu. I decided to make my way, via ferry, to the small island of Eua. The ferry ride was uneventful which was perfect. Actually, we did spot some humpback whales in the strait between the two islands. Hundreds of these beautiful whales come to breed each year and it’s easy to spend hours watching them play from the shore (which I was sure to do).
A Cave in a Cliff - Eua
Eau is renowned for its hiking and caving and I was excited to be somewhere new. Not only was I staying in a beautiful little fale, a self-contained sleeping hut, just minutes from the ocean…but I was sharing my accommodation with two great girls that I had befriended days earlier in Nuku álofa. Gabi from Slovakia, and Heather from California; ski instructors who follow the winter season around the globe. They take short breaks in warmer climates between seasons. Tonga was one of these ‘breaks’. Tough life eh?
Our first day out we also met up with a fellow from Vancouver and we all spent an entire day in the national park on the Eastern side of the island. The views are breathtaking and although a lot of the trails are overgrown, it was easy to make our way through the undergrowth of the ancient forest (with the help of a hand-drawn map, from one of the locals) and we spent a bit of time in a cave on a cliff.
Hidden Talent Abounds
That evening we met up with some women from the small village nearby and they taught us the basics of weaving baskets from coconut leaves. This is very practical in Tonga, as these baskets are used in lieu of shopping bags. It’s an interesting skill to have for someone from a northern temperate climate…I’m not sure how the city of Victoria would appreciate me scaling the few palm trees we actually maintain (painstakingly taken care of as they have such a tough time in winter) in order to rip down fronds. …mmhh…my plans was to make Christmas presents for people with my new-found skills, but I may need to re-think this.
Fantastic!
This is when things went a bit funny. I went online (the islands are amazingly well-connected to the internet although the roads are not paved, hot-water is an absolute luxury, and I couldn’t find cheese to save my life) and was surprised to see there was a huge earthquake south of Samoa (7.9 on the Richter scale). This means it was between Samoa and Tonga – north of the island I was on. A tsunami warning soon followed. Now it’s common sense to stay away from the water and find higher ground in these instances – we had enough time to prepare …we weren’t worried about being swept up in the wave. What was more worrying is that the infrastructure of the small communities can’t necessarily handle events like this.
Everything closed – all the kids were sent home from school – boats were moored. People shut their doors and spent the day with their loved ones. Although there is no official warning system in Tonga – everyone knew within the hour and we were soon wandering a ghost island. Needless to say, the tsunami didn’t make it as far south as us. There were some fatalities in both Samoa and very far north Tonga. This little paradise has been through the ringer of late. Tongans are a resilient people who continue to smile through even the toughest time. My kind of people.
My flight to Australia left from the big island the next day. I spent the night wondering if the ferry would leave in the morning. It did (and it only backed into the dock once…everyone was silent). I made it to Oz as planned. I wouldn’t have minded being “trapped” in Tonga for another week though. I could have worked through it.
My Tongan Family
That evening, before I flew out, my new friends and I were invited by Julie and Aki (locals that showed me around in my first couple of days in Tonga) and their family, to have a Tongan feast. This was a perfect way to end my adventure. We got to spend time with a beautiful family in beautiful surroundings. The food was amazing, the dancing was graceful. New friends and new experiences…I felt that I had everything I needed….there was even coffee.
Julie, Aki, and Jill
Theme Songs of the Day:
90-Mile Water Wall – The National
…
Pigs of Tongatapu
Anyone who thinks that roosters only crow at dawn has obviously never stayed on a farm and has definitely never been to Tonga.
I awoke every 20 minutes from about 3:30am onwards, as my feathered friend hoarsely announced even the possibility of the sun rising within the following few hours. As I grew accustomed to the cock-a-doodle doing and was drifting back to sleep, I heard the beautiful sounds of church bells. Tonga is an extremely religious country and over 98% of the population attends religious service. It was still dark but the sound was pleasant….at least the first twenty rings or so. As the bells continued – 25…35…50… I started to wonder if this was some kind of warning system – was something wrong? …would someone come get me in my lone room in the upstairs of my out-of-the-way guesthouse?
I decided that at the first yell I would evacuate – to where, I’m not exactly sure.
View from Pangaimotu
Well as it turned out – the bells topped out at about 60 rings and only moments later I heard the beautiful sounds of a church choir. All was well. I didn’t get back to sleep but I was happy to know that nothing too exciting was going to happen on my first full day on the island of Tongatapu…little did I realize the poignancy this dose of foreshadowing would hold.
My ten days in the Kingdom of Tonga were amazing. I have never been anywhere quite like this little south Pacific gem. Although its four main island groups are some of the least visited in the region (everyone goes to Fiji), this is a county that retains its natural beauty and culture. The people are so friendly!
One of the highlights of my trip was watching fire dancers leap around while I enjoyed a feast of traditional local foods (including the delicacy of roast pig cooked in an umu, an underground oven).
Fire Dancing at Oholei
All of this took place in a huge cave on the beach. As I sat there watching the beautiful dancers and eating my roast tapioca and fresh fish soaked in coconut milk, I wondered if I really needed to continue on to Australia…could I eke out another few months in this paradise? Would it be so bad to spend maybe another few weeks going to the market for fresh vegetables and reading my days away?
Then I remembered that damned rooster. A couple of weeks was probably enough.
After a few days of exploring on my own via bike and foot, I was honoured to get a personalized tour of the entire island by new, local friends. It’s not hard to see all the sites (albeit briefly) in one or two days. Tongatapu, the main island (meaning: Sacred South) has an area of around 260km² and is home to over 70% of the population (approx: 73,000).
The Trilion Near Niutoua
To put this into perspective for all you folks living in BC – Togatapu is not even double to size of Saltspring Island.
My tour was fantastic and I was given an abundance of information from my exuberant tour guide Julie and her personable fiancé, Aki. At one point we stopped at Julie’s aunt’s house and picked up an array of roast vegetables and meat. The four of us (Milo the driver, provided bread and corned-beef) parked at the beach and enjoyed our Tongan picnic before I went for a swim in the surf. You don’t get this on every tour, but I was lucky to meet such fun and friendly people. My trip wouldn’t have been the same without them.
The next day I made my way, via ferry, to a small island 2.5hours off the southeast coast. Eua was meant to have exceptional hiking and caving. It was going to be an adventure, I was sure of it. And I wasn’t wrong.
Theme Song of the Day:
Night Windows – The Weakerthans
…
British Columbia is a place that sings loudly to me. I have grown up with the mountains and the ocean and the forests in my backyard – three decades of walking through postcard-quality scenery on a day-to-day basis – and yet it still takes my breath away.
We’ve all heard that one of the great things about going away is how much you appreciate what you’ve got when arriving home again. This has to be true for so many people around the globe. The comfort, familiarity, and routine of home…it’s got its appeal. We derive focus and a sense of direction with this blanket of habit and recognition.
A pattern to smudge over the chaos.
In this part of the world, on the west coast in particular, we are blessed to not only have wild, natural beauty at our doorstep, but the laid-back friendliness of the people that surround us should not be taken for granted. A simple stop in the middle of a busy street (with a slack-jawed look of confusion) warrants a stranger stopping to not only offer assistance… but you know what?…uh, I was headed in that direction already so why don’t I just lead the way and make sure you get to where you’re going?…Want half my muffin?
It’s like living in a Disney movie.
This is not to imply naivety. Not at all. We just have friendliness and it perpetuates itself…one person smiles and then the next. It’s science! As a whole we are educated and alert and maybe we have an underlying confidence that allows us to put ourselves out there. It’s really something.
Where am I going with all of this provincial pride? Well I didn’t actually intend to go on and on about how great we are up here in the Pacific Northwest. I just couldn’t help myself…!
But truth be told, I guess it all comes down to the fact that I’m seeing home in a very different light than ever before. My main component isn’t here anymore. A huge part of the ‘home’ equation has been taken away. My comfort and belonging is emotionally tied up in the life I have been building with one person for ten years. I can still appreciate the qualities of home. I still have that life…it’s just very different now…it’s individual – my observations may be more objective in some regards because of this… or, I don’t know – maybe they’re teetering towards a more subjective nature?
Anyway, I didn’t have too many expectations of coming back. I knew I had to face the paperwork I have been putting off. I have beautiful new babies in my life (all of them boys!) that I have had so much fun visiting. I am honoured to take part in a couple of weddings, some BBQs, and more than a few parties! I get to visit with friends and family and its been fantastic so far.
A few hiccups along the way have threatened the digestive peace that is home. Some of the hiccups are bigger than others, but I know I am strong; I can handle these…I will drink my water upside down and get through the worst of it (by the way – in Oz they stand on their heads and drink water right-side-up to cure hiccups).
I am very aware that as issues arise, the temptation to pull away from all of it gets stronger. I have to be careful not to become too numb or distant when dealing with stressful situations. Sometimes the little things seem unmanageably big and then at others the big things seem so small in comparison to all that I have been through.
Uh…yup….’subjective’ is the clear winner here.
Give me the stress of a lost bus ticket or a language barrier any day – it seems easier than trudging through even the smallest confrontation or mishap at home.
All of this: the good and the bad, it’s all part of life. Things should get easier as time moves forward. For now I am happy to visit ‘home’ and I am looking forward to heading back on the road in only a few short weeks.
Let the adventure continue.
Theme Songs of the Day:
Within You – Ray LaMontagne, from the album Till The Sun Turns Black
Lesson No. 1 – Viva Voce, from the album The Heat Can Melt Your Brain
Cook Strait
As I write this, I’m enjoying my last solo night in New Zealand before meeting up with friends for one final adventurous week abroad. Tonight I’ve decided to camp next to a little out-of-the-way geothermal hot spring. I wanted to avoid the crowds and commercialism of some of the bigger, more established areas further north in Rotorua. I made the right decision. I feel I have my own private nook – a little piece of cold paradise (apparently it’s the coldest winter they’ve had here in quite a while). It’s peaceful and natural and smelly (like eggs). I have spent hours in the water and when I’m done writing, I will hop right back in….ahhhh….
What an incredible country! The people I have been fortunate enough to meet are fantastic! I have belly-danced and learned the basics of medieval sword fighting. In Christchurch I met a fascinating couple who took me in and were so hospitable – we ate too much seafood and made a break for the mountains. I received insider information on the best powder in the area (not to mention the use of full gear! – thank you M. Lucas). I met a friend of a friend and not only had a tour of the village and a hike through the surrounding hills of Lyttleton, but also had the pleasure of partaking if some great conversation (she’s walked thousands of kms all over the world and she makes the idea of biking from Melbourne to Sydney out like it’s not a big deal). I was made to feel right at home in their lovely little cabin (thank you Joan & Bryon). I was invited to accompany a beautiful family up to some thermal pools on the South Island. We chatted amongst the steam while looking up at the surrounding mountains – their three little boys keeping me entertained the entire time (thank you Angel family).
Hamner Springs
The people here are fabulous and the scenery isn’t bad either. My drive over the last few days has been incredible! First, I have my own music because of the ingenuity of an iPod adaptor. Second, the campervan is free as it’s a ‘relocation’ which means I have five days to get from Christchurch (on the South Island) to Auckland (on the North Island) and I simply pay for petrol. Third, most of the 1800km+ that I’ve covered in this beautiful country have been magnificent.
I have witnessed vast horizons, towering cliffs, the rugged snow-covered peaks of the Southern Alps, inlets and sail-filled harbours, black sand beaches, white sand beaches, and sprawling volcanic plateau. I’ve seen more sheep in the last few days than I’ve seen in my entire life prior to this. Wooly cows, lamas, pigs, ostrich, deer, porpoise, baby seals, mama seals, hawks and a large variety of birds… lakes, hills, valleys and rivers – this lone exploration has been a time of beauty and reflection.
So what to think, or to do, as this chapter of my travels winds down?
I’m not sure how I feel right now.
I guess I’m caught up in trying to be in the present moment; enjoying my last few days in New Zealand with good friends…
All the while I feel as though my brain and my heart are being pulled in opposite directions – a conflicting feeling of numbness and painful sensitivity. Actually “pulled” isn’t even the right verb…it’s more like my brain and heart are contained in that rare state we learnt about in science: homogeneity. Everything is dispersed evenly – neither floating nor sinking (thanks high-school, for these random references). I am not fully present in this moment – or really any particular moment; ‘not 100% in the room’. I feel I am suspended. I don’t even feel caught or stuck…I just am – just hanging out in that beaker back in science class.
What are the thoughts and feelings I see suspended beside me in this beaker – these particles that all take on the same weight – the same gravity?
A View of Picton from the ferry
I am thinking of home…of a home that is different now. I am thinking of the logistics of travel and getting back to the island. I am thinking about how I will spend my time back in Canada; seven weeks will fly by. I am thinking about my journey up to this point: where I’ve been, what I’ve seen, who I’ve met, how I’ve felt, how some experiences have affected me more than others- and the reasons for this. I am thinking of Kevin. I am thinking of family, and friends that are family– many of whom I haven’t seen since the wake. I am thinking about summer on the beautiful West Coast. I am thinking about my cat.
I am thinking of continuing forward, like we all must do
through all these incredibly hard things that punch us in the gut
they crosscheck us from behind
tear us apart
strip us down to the basics
and give us a chance to rebuild
to find strength from hidden sources
delve deep to locate power-buried
and rekindle our faith in the human spirit.
…
*A huge thank you to everyone who has taken the time to travel with me in real life and also via this website – your support is invaluable.
*My plan is to continue writing and sharing during my trip back to Canada – the journey continues…
Can’t wait to see you all.
Love and many hugs,
The Successful Traveler
~just a girl who has somehow managed to find a way to gear down to first~
Helmets!
Whale Watching in Byron Bay
Theme Songs of the Day:
Remember Me - Blue Boy (this song is for you, Alice)
Go It Alone – Beck, from the Album Guero
…
After spending many months with friends travelling through the vast and varying country of Australia, I find myself craving some ‘me’ time. I’m ready to venture out on my own for a bit.
On a contradictory note: this entire journey has been an individual one – there’s no denying that.
I am choosing my direction as I go and I’m making decisions on a daily basis that point me towards the light at the end of the tunnel; whatever trail my intuition deems best at the time. With a few exceptions this had lead me to meet up with people I have known previously: the luxury of a large network of friends – I’m very grateful. I have been able to get to know these special people so much better because of the time we’ve shared…the places we’ve ventured to together. I wouldn’t trade that for anything.
Now it’s time for me to do some exploring without the harness. It wasn’t long ago that the idea of venturing out on my own created some anxiety. Although I do feel strong and independent, I have low moments. It’s at these times when I have really relied on the support and understanding of friends – new and old – I’ve needed that support.
I have now reached a point where I trust myself to get through the rough patches without a safety net. The lone traveler makes decisions on a whim without consulting anyone. They are alone – but only as alone as they want to be. Another potential friend is never too far away; it never takes long to meet good people, if you’re open to it. Saying this, there’s no substitution for long-term friends that know you inside and out. Confiding in strangers is easy and you may get some interesting and poignant perspective, but it doesn’t hold the weight of a hug from a good friend when you need it.
The most Eastern Point in OZ - Byron Bay
My last week in Australia was bitter-sweet. I had some quality time with my buddies in Brisbane and had a blast down in Byron Bay with the girls. We saw some kick@ss live music (True Live) and when we weren’t chillin’ on the beach and wandering the town’s haunts, we were out on the water, watching humpbacks do their thing – a great last hurrah before my departure.
When we got home I realized how I have really come to associate Brisbane with ‘home’. I will miss it, but I will be back.
New Zealand: land of the long white cloud.… I sensed an adventure when I made the booking, and I haven’t been disappointed so far. Trying new things, meeting locals – this is excellent. I have made some new friends and I have fallen for NZ in a big way. Life is good….great, actually.
Looking up at Mt. Hutt, Canterbury
THE DAINTREE FOREST
The Daintree Forest is the oldest rain forest in the world: 175 million years – that’s pretty old! This is incredible and humbling. As I write, I’m sitting in the shade of trees and vines similar to the ones dinosaurs walked under! How ultimately inspiring…
I find myself in Wet Tropical North Queensland in a place called Tribulation Bay and I have more-or-less spanned the entire East Coast in two weeks. This in no small feat! We are staying in a beautiful hostel consisting of A-frames and huts that follow a windy path down to the beach. It’s a tropical paradise.
Upon arrival we are told not to feed the wild cassowaries – cool! These are such prehistoric-looking birds; it’s not hard to imagine them as late-edition dinosaurs….sort of like crocodiles…turtles….Mick Jagger….
Cape Tribulation
Originally the plan to head north was going to be an individual adventure, but due to beautiful timing, an intriguing acquaintance from the past would take up residence as my next travel companion. Aisha and I met briefly (and unremarkably – we don’t remember each other much at all) in Edinburgh years ago. We were reunited in Brisbane through our mutual friend Alice. Alice is amazing, and therefore her friends are amazing too! This was bound to be fun!
Ahh, fun.
Some of our highlights:
- Cairns: Arriving at 1am in the morning to a nightclub that posed as a hostel, and meeting our roommates who had been in the city for nine days yet hadn’t been to the esplanade (the waterfront – four blocks form said hostel)….keep in mind: we’re smack-dab on the great barrier reef…
After one of them told us his entire life story he proceeded to kiss a small jade Buddha while whispering softly: “I LOVE you.” He then passed out…
…we switched hostels early the next morning.
The Great Barrier Reef
- Sailing on the boat out to the Great Barrier Reef we were deafened by Enya’s ‘Orinoco Flow’… not only as we left port, but also on our return….sail away, sail away… we figure they were trying to create atmosphere?
…As I climbed aboard the catamaran after scuba diving, I was greeted by loud and frantic jazz; this was surely a bonus. - White wine on the white sand beaches that surround Cape Tribulation… played a game of pool amongst the leafy rainforest.
- Looking for crocodiles on the Daintree River as the old-school pulley boat brought us over to the world heritage site. We held conflicting feelings of relief and disappointment when we didn’t spot any.
Magnetic Sunset
- Townsville locals showed us amazing hospitality. We had some great laughs, and they shared with us their idea of a good time (a story to be shared over beer).
- Magnetic Island proved, once again, that it is truly magnetic. Sunny beaches and tramping through the national park land that makes up ¾ of the island was complemented by blatant and unwavering sunshine.
- We found ourselves looking forward to arriving “home” after only two weeks. This was a pleasant surprise….we had had enough time away to appreciate Brisbane and all of its comforts.
- The two of us filled our two weeks so full of good times that I have found inspiration enough to write page upon page about the adventures.… for practical purposes I must limit myself; posting only a bulleted list – cool!!
Jill and Aisha
There is absolutely nothing unremarkable about the experiences Aisha and I shared on this adventure into the tropics. We met some interesting people and saw some unforgettable sights. Aisha and I had so much to talk about; the awesome scenery was simply a backdrop.
Good conversation makes the world go ‘round!
I had the pleasure of bonding with another friend who has been through huge change recently. Geez, there are a lot of us out there!? Life is truly jam-packed with change…maybe we can look at it as transformation instead?
The old forest we visited holds a beautiful history. Amongst a landscape that has existed for 175 million years there is the deception of a sense of permanence – but we all know that the notion of permanence is simply that: a notion.
…
Theme Songs of the Day:
Ageless Beauty – The Stars, from the album Set Yourself on Fire (the acoustic version is my favourite, but I couldn’t find a good copy of it)
Creature Fear - Bon Iver, from the album For Emma, Forever Ago
Not Bad!
After a short recovery and a few extra days rest in Melbourne, Matt, my current travel cohort and partner-in-crime, and I decided it was time to head to Sydney. Although cheap domestic flights beckoned us, we felt the call of the road and rented a car instead. What a great idea! An ugly, but zippy little compact we dubbed Glow Bug transported us eastward.
The trip across Victoria was complemented by good coffee and fantastic conversation. What better way to share stories and laughs than with the open road spread out before you? Having always been a big fan of road trips, I simply love facing outward, in the same direction, with my travel companion(s). Listening to great tunes just sweetens the deal.
On this day It was sunny, and although it takes the better part of an hour to actually leave the sprawling suburbs of the city, we were greeted by beautiful, bright rolling hills (they call them mountains here).
Our next few days would consist of casually driving through impressive scenery dotted with forest, ocean, rivers, and hills (mountain ranges?!?). We explored little fishing villages along the coast and made various attempts at catching dinner along the way. The fish we caught were too big to take in the small compact so we settled with eating at pubs and joined the locals in their favourite past-time (Eden, a small town along the border in NSW, claims to be “a drinking town with a fishing problem”).
Old Tom - The Amazing Killer whale of Twofold Bay
We gasped in the beauty of Lakes Entrance, a small town tucked into the east corner of the state of Victoria. In Eden, farther north over the border, we sought out the Killer Whale Museum (and aforementioned pub). It was here we got the chance to see Old Tom, the famous Orca that used to assist the whalers in Twofold Bay in their hunt for baleen whales. He would herd the baleens into the bay and lead the whalers to the catch. If the whalers proved too slow, he would actually grasp the ropes of the whaling boat and tug them! After Old Tom passed away, the orcas never returned and soon the whaling industry collapsed. A great story and local legend.
Eden, NSW
In Bermagui, probably my favourite stop on this part of my journey, we spent the entire afternoon fishing (I was more of a support network: singing loudly, if intermittently, to attract fish – and keeping an eye on the fairy penguins as they efficiently stole our catch from around the break-water).
…
There is a place I get to when I’m traveling extensively for any amount of time. I inherently recognize this place, and the timing can seem quite random, but it’s at this pinnacle moment that I actually see myself as a Traveler.
In the UK, back in ’99 this moment came about very quickly. I knew I had a year abroad; I was a Traveler from the moment I received my visa. It was reaffirmed when, mere hours after we landed in Glasgow, as we were getting ready to go to bed – a bunch of mad Dutchmen swung into the hostel and stole us away to a rocking seventies club. We danced all night (assisted by the ever-so-helpful jet-lag and a wee pint or two). The next day we caught a ride with our new friends to Edinburgh. We would end up living the better part of six months over the following year there.
It was one of the most relaxed times in my life…I was living each moment by the seat of my pants (albeit in tandem with my friend Racheal, whom I was attached to at the hip). We settled for a while in Edinburgh, but really, I (or we, at the time) could have picked up at any moment and, on a whim, made our way to Spain or Finland or India, had we the funds.
Maybe it was easy to see myself as a Traveler right away back then because I didn’t feel I was leaving much behind. At nineteen I had my job, school, and a haphazard social life, but I was very much ready for crazy change. I knew I would find it as soon as I hopped on the plane.
The Wombat is Smiling!
On this trip in Australia, with so much of a life left behind (or put on hold at least), I realized this pinnacle moment as I sat in the car on a road trip through the beautiful countryside of NSW. With a like-minded friend beside me, we watched the scenery pass and we smiled. It was a moment shared, yet also something very private. I knew – I felt in my soul, that I was not a vacationer or a guest anymore; I was a self-defined Traveler.
I realized I had survived, have survived, something huge and all-encompassing. I am coming out the other side – I can make that cumbersome hook-turn we discussed back in Melbourne –I’ve got the skills.
I appreciate that I had the chance to see so much beauty so far off the beaten track. The knowledge that it’s my track… I’m choosing which way to turn… this is precious. I am strong. I belong wherever I am.
…
Theme Songs of the Day:
Guaranteed – Eddie Vedder, from the soundtrack Into the Wild
One Crowded Hour – Auggie March, from the album Moo, You Bloody Choir
I’m Good, I’m Gone– Lykke Li, from the album Youth Novel (Alex D, this one’s for you)
Ramble On – Led Zeppelin, from the album Led Zeppelin II
“A wise man should consider that health is the greatest of human blessings, and learn how by his own thought to derive benefit from his illnesses.”
- Hippocrates
The Dragon that greets patrons of Soul Mama, a vegetarian restaurant in Melbourne
Melbourne is in the running for one of my favourite cities in the country. It’s beautiful and culturally-varied. I couldn’t help but notice that people are pretty darn friendly there as well (including my hosts, who were personally responsible for me enjoying a deliciously diverse menu and eating the very best I have in months – thank you Lynch family).
Not only are the cafes and restaurants dynamic and never-ending, but the city’s hospitals ain’t so bad either. Actually that implies I’ve seen more than one, but really, one hospital tends to fill the quota, wouldn’t you think?
I wasn’t really, seriously sick, but my kidneys had decided to let themselves be known to me. I had to get it all sorted out by spending the night hooked up to an IV. The medical system here is very similar to Canada, and because I was in noticeable pain they got me through administration quite quickly – and then doled out morphine with similar speed. I felt very well taken care of (thanks morphine!) and in general I’m quite okay with hospitals; comfortable enough with how it all works and what to expect… I know I’m an expert because I was able to get the gown on with only minimal assistance and a short question and answer period….
It was the first time I had been in any sort of medical facility since Kevin’s illness and it was emotionally hard for me. It brought back so many memories. Being in the fevered-pain I was in, not having all my defenses intact, it got a little tough there for a while. As the pain slowly subsided and I knew I wouldn’t have to stay a second night, I actually started to delve into the memories of our journey through the medical system these past couple of years. What a journey it was.
View from St. Kilda Pier
The tests and the appointments. The chemotherapy, radiation, steroids, anti-inflammatory drugs, anti-convulsants. The CT scans and MRIs and ECGs. We had appointments everyday for a while there. Ambulance rides, stretchers, wheelchairs, walkers. We had handle bars and poles and railings, so much equipment for normal, everyday activities. Physiotherapists, nurses, oncologists, GPs, home-care and finally hospice. There were a minimum of six hospitals that we became all too familiar with. We were proficient in a field that no one should even have to think about.
This is a sad trip down memory lane. I’m sorry if it’s hard for some of you to read. These are the thoughts that I explored while lying in that hospital bed, and when I faced some of it head-on again, it became a little easier to deal with.
There is no real pattern for this whole healing process. At every turn I find a new way to address a feeling or thought. It must be one of the most reflective times in my life. Learning new, honest and organic ways to sift through my emotions is an art-form that takes time and effort. I’m lucky to have both these beautiful surrounding, and the amazing people around me; it makes it all a little easier.
I know that my body needed the rest (and the medicine) and when I felt well enough to be discharged I was able to head back to a very comfortable home where I was made to feel welcome and at ease. This was invaluable, and really, if I had to be sick, I’m glad I was where I was. A little down-time has refreshed me in new ways.
Recent Comments