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THE DAINTREE FOREST
The Daintree Forest is the oldest rain forest in the world: 175 million years – that’s pretty old! This is incredible and humbling. As I write, I’m sitting in the shade of trees and vines similar to the ones dinosaurs walked under! How ultimately inspiring…
I find myself in Wet Tropical North Queensland in a place called Tribulation Bay and I have more-or-less spanned the entire East Coast in two weeks. This in no small feat! We are staying in a beautiful hostel consisting of A-frames and huts that follow a windy path down to the beach. It’s a tropical paradise.
Upon arrival we are told not to feed the wild cassowaries – cool! These are such prehistoric-looking birds; it’s not hard to imagine them as late-edition dinosaurs….sort of like crocodiles…turtles….Mick Jagger….

Cape Tribulation
Originally the plan to head north was going to be an individual adventure, but due to beautiful timing, an intriguing acquaintance from the past would take up residence as my next travel companion. Aisha and I met briefly (and unremarkably – we don’t remember each other much at all) in Edinburgh years ago. We were reunited in Brisbane through our mutual friend Alice. Alice is amazing, and therefore her friends are amazing too! This was bound to be fun!
Ahh, fun.
Some of our highlights:
- Cairns: Arriving at 1am in the morning to a nightclub that posed as a hostel, and meeting our roommates who had been in the city for nine days yet hadn’t been to the esplanade (the waterfront – four blocks form said hostel)….keep in mind: we’re smack-dab on the great barrier reef…
After one of them told us his entire life story he proceeded to kiss a small jade Buddha while whispering softly: “I LOVE you.” He then passed out…
…we switched hostels early the next morning.
The Great Barrier Reef
- Sailing on the boat out to the Great Barrier Reef we were deafened by Enya’s ‘Orinoco Flow’… not only as we left port, but also on our return….sail away, sail away… we figure they were trying to create atmosphere?
…As I climbed aboard the catamaran after scuba diving, I was greeted by loud and frantic jazz; this was surely a bonus. - White wine on the white sand beaches that surround Cape Tribulation… played a game of pool amongst the leafy rainforest.
- Looking for crocodiles on the Daintree River as the old-school pulley boat brought us over to the world heritage site. We held conflicting feelings of relief and disappointment when we didn’t spot any.

Magnetic Sunset
- Townsville locals showed us amazing hospitality. We had some great laughs, and they shared with us their idea of a good time (a story to be shared over beer).
- Magnetic Island proved, once again, that it is truly magnetic. Sunny beaches and tramping through the national park land that makes up ¾ of the island was complemented by blatant and unwavering sunshine.
- We found ourselves looking forward to arriving “home” after only two weeks. This was a pleasant surprise….we had had enough time away to appreciate Brisbane and all of its comforts.
- The two of us filled our two weeks so full of good times that I have found inspiration enough to write page upon page about the adventures.… for practical purposes I must limit myself; posting only a bulleted list – cool!!

Jill and Aisha
There is absolutely nothing unremarkable about the experiences Aisha and I shared on this adventure into the tropics. We met some interesting people and saw some unforgettable sights. Aisha and I had so much to talk about; the awesome scenery was simply a backdrop.
Good conversation makes the world go ‘round!
I had the pleasure of bonding with another friend who has been through huge change recently. Geez, there are a lot of us out there!? Life is truly jam-packed with change…maybe we can look at it as transformation instead?
The old forest we visited holds a beautiful history. Amongst a landscape that has existed for 175 million years there is the deception of a sense of permanence – but we all know that the notion of permanence is simply that: a notion.
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Theme Songs of the Day:
Ageless Beauty – The Stars, from the album Set Yourself on Fire (the acoustic version is my favourite, but I couldn’t find a good copy of it)
Creature Fear - Bon Iver, from the album For Emma, Forever Ago

Not Bad!
After a short recovery and a few extra days rest in Melbourne, Matt, my current travel cohort and partner-in-crime, and I decided it was time to head to Sydney. Although cheap domestic flights beckoned us, we felt the call of the road and rented a car instead. What a great idea! An ugly, but zippy little compact we dubbed Glow Bug transported us eastward.
The trip across Victoria was complemented by good coffee and fantastic conversation. What better way to share stories and laughs than with the open road spread out before you? Having always been a big fan of road trips, I simply love facing outward, in the same direction, with my travel companion(s). Listening to great tunes just sweetens the deal.
On this day It was sunny, and although it takes the better part of an hour to actually leave the sprawling suburbs of the city, we were greeted by beautiful, bright rolling hills (they call them mountains here).
Our next few days would consist of casually driving through impressive scenery dotted with forest, ocean, rivers, and hills (mountain ranges?!?). We explored little fishing villages along the coast and made various attempts at catching dinner along the way. The fish we caught were too big to take in the small compact so we settled with eating at pubs and joined the locals in their favourite past-time (Eden, a small town along the border in NSW, claims to be “a drinking town with a fishing problem”).

Old Tom - The Amazing Killer whale of Twofold Bay
We gasped in the beauty of Lakes Entrance, a small town tucked into the east corner of the state of Victoria. In Eden, farther north over the border, we sought out the Killer Whale Museum (and aforementioned pub). It was here we got the chance to see Old Tom, the famous Orca that used to assist the whalers in Twofold Bay in their hunt for baleen whales. He would herd the baleens into the bay and lead the whalers to the catch. If the whalers proved too slow, he would actually grasp the ropes of the whaling boat and tug them! After Old Tom passed away, the orcas never returned and soon the whaling industry collapsed. A great story and local legend.

Eden, NSW
In Bermagui, probably my favourite stop on this part of my journey, we spent the entire afternoon fishing (I was more of a support network: singing loudly, if intermittently, to attract fish – and keeping an eye on the fairy penguins as they efficiently stole our catch from around the break-water).
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There is a place I get to when I’m traveling extensively for any amount of time. I inherently recognize this place, and the timing can seem quite random, but it’s at this pinnacle moment that I actually see myself as a Traveler.
In the UK, back in ’99 this moment came about very quickly. I knew I had a year abroad; I was a Traveler from the moment I received my visa. It was reaffirmed when, mere hours after we landed in Glasgow, as we were getting ready to go to bed – a bunch of mad Dutchmen swung into the hostel and stole us away to a rocking seventies club. We danced all night (assisted by the ever-so-helpful jet-lag and a wee pint or two). The next day we caught a ride with our new friends to Edinburgh. We would end up living the better part of six months over the following year there.
It was one of the most relaxed times in my life…I was living each moment by the seat of my pants (albeit in tandem with my friend Racheal, whom I was attached to at the hip). We settled for a while in Edinburgh, but really, I (or we, at the time) could have picked up at any moment and, on a whim, made our way to Spain or Finland or India, had we the funds.
Maybe it was easy to see myself as a Traveler right away back then because I didn’t feel I was leaving much behind. At nineteen I had my job, school, and a haphazard social life, but I was very much ready for crazy change. I knew I would find it as soon as I hopped on the plane.

The Wombat is Smiling!
On this trip in Australia, with so much of a life left behind (or put on hold at least), I realized this pinnacle moment as I sat in the car on a road trip through the beautiful countryside of NSW. With a like-minded friend beside me, we watched the scenery pass and we smiled. It was a moment shared, yet also something very private. I knew – I felt in my soul, that I was not a vacationer or a guest anymore; I was a self-defined Traveler.
I realized I had survived, have survived, something huge and all-encompassing. I am coming out the other side – I can make that cumbersome hook-turn we discussed back in Melbourne –I’ve got the skills.
I appreciate that I had the chance to see so much beauty so far off the beaten track. The knowledge that it’s my track… I’m choosing which way to turn… this is precious. I am strong. I belong wherever I am.
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Theme Songs of the Day:
Guaranteed – Eddie Vedder, from the soundtrack Into the Wild
One Crowded Hour – Auggie March, from the album Moo, You Bloody Choir
I’m Good, I’m Gone– Lykke Li, from the album Youth Novel (Alex D, this one’s for you)
Ramble On – Led Zeppelin, from the album Led Zeppelin II

“A wise man should consider that health is the greatest of human blessings, and learn how by his own thought to derive benefit from his illnesses.”
- Hippocrates

The Dragon that greets patrons of Soul Mama, a vegetarian restaurant in Melbourne
Melbourne is in the running for one of my favourite cities in the country. It’s beautiful and culturally-varied. I couldn’t help but notice that people are pretty darn friendly there as well (including my hosts, who were personally responsible for me enjoying a deliciously diverse menu and eating the very best I have in months – thank you Lynch family).
Not only are the cafes and restaurants dynamic and never-ending, but the city’s hospitals ain’t so bad either. Actually that implies I’ve seen more than one, but really, one hospital tends to fill the quota, wouldn’t you think?
I wasn’t really, seriously sick, but my kidneys had decided to let themselves be known to me. I had to get it all sorted out by spending the night hooked up to an IV. The medical system here is very similar to Canada, and because I was in noticeable pain they got me through administration quite quickly – and then doled out morphine with similar speed. I felt very well taken care of (thanks morphine!) and in general I’m quite okay with hospitals; comfortable enough with how it all works and what to expect… I know I’m an expert because I was able to get the gown on with only minimal assistance and a short question and answer period….
It was the first time I had been in any sort of medical facility since Kevin’s illness and it was emotionally hard for me. It brought back so many memories. Being in the fevered-pain I was in, not having all my defenses intact, it got a little tough there for a while. As the pain slowly subsided and I knew I wouldn’t have to stay a second night, I actually started to delve into the memories of our journey through the medical system these past couple of years. What a journey it was.

View from St. Kilda Pier
The tests and the appointments. The chemotherapy, radiation, steroids, anti-inflammatory drugs, anti-convulsants. The CT scans and MRIs and ECGs. We had appointments everyday for a while there. Ambulance rides, stretchers, wheelchairs, walkers. We had handle bars and poles and railings, so much equipment for normal, everyday activities. Physiotherapists, nurses, oncologists, GPs, home-care and finally hospice. There were a minimum of six hospitals that we became all too familiar with. We were proficient in a field that no one should even have to think about.
This is a sad trip down memory lane. I’m sorry if it’s hard for some of you to read. These are the thoughts that I explored while lying in that hospital bed, and when I faced some of it head-on again, it became a little easier to deal with.
There is no real pattern for this whole healing process. At every turn I find a new way to address a feeling or thought. It must be one of the most reflective times in my life. Learning new, honest and organic ways to sift through my emotions is an art-form that takes time and effort. I’m lucky to have both these beautiful surrounding, and the amazing people around me; it makes it all a little easier.
I know that my body needed the rest (and the medicine) and when I felt well enough to be discharged I was able to head back to a very comfortable home where I was made to feel welcome and at ease. This was invaluable, and really, if I had to be sick, I’m glad I was where I was. A little down-time has refreshed me in new ways.


The Bedfords call this Home
I know there is an absolute abundance of vivid, descriptive words that could be used to attempt an accurate portrayal of the Bedford’s property in Loongana, Tasmania. Now I just need to figure out where to start? Wondrous, natural, fantastic? All good, but not painting the entire picture. I’m not sure I can do it justice, but this 70 acres of land is beautiful and worth the journey. It’s less than an hour’s drive from Ulverstone which lies on the North shore of Tasmania, West of Launceston.
Matt, my American-Aussie travel companion, had found the Bedford’s on Couchsurfing.org. After some correspondence with Peter, the man of the house, we had been invited to stay a couple of nights. As we got comfortable, we knew that we would end up staying the remainder of our trip in and about the area. What a welcoming, comfortable piece of paradise.

Matt and our host Peter looking down on Leven Canyon
The property is more or less self-contained and self-sufficient. The Bedfords have spent years building the property from the ground up. A great descriptive word for this family: industrious! A gorgeous (secret) waterfall and small river supply hydro power. There are gardens, chickens, some miniature horses, a small lake with trout, a tree fort, and my personal favourite: the outdoor, fire heated bathtub.
This is a real treat – you actually light a fire below the tub and must be careful to add cold water on a frequent basis in order not to be slowly simmered! Can it get any better? It’s cold enough for frost in the mornings, so a hot bath outside is a virtual heaven. Even better? Our last night there, as the hand-picked hazelnuts roasted on the bonfire, I sipped homemade honey mead in the tub, and the others stood around chatting and throwing vegetables in to make the stock perfect (mmmhhh, Jill soup? – yeah, I might not remember the night with complete accuracy, the honey mead packed a powerful punch).

They sure are friendly in Penguin!
Although the entire first day was spent on the property, by the second day it was time to explore a bit further out. A trip into Ulverstone was highlighted by a coffee at Smiley’s. The scones and jam, and friendly atmosphere made allowance for the atrocious attempt at a Canadian accent (although I was flattered Smiley tried, and it came across in a lovely Irish lilt with ‘eh’ planted at the end of each sentence).

Fresh fish for sushi
We took the van West to a small town called Penguin on the quest for fresh fish. Penguin is charming (sort of like Qualicum for you Vancouver Islanders) but contrary to popular belief (and logic) contains no penguins. Oh, and no fresh fish….sigh (one might bring the other, no?). We continued on to Burnie and our fresh-fish-success meant sushi night at the Bedfords. Yum!

The river running through the Canyon
Hiking through Leven Canyon, biking, late-night wildlife excursions in the Ute, eating way too much, drinking, sharing stories, just a lot of hanging out…this was the bulk of how I spent my time in Tasmania. This is how everyone should spend their time in Tasmania!
It’s always so nice to get off the beaten track a bit. It feels real and wholesome and valuable. Tasmania is a lot like home, more so than any place I’ve been so far in Australia. I think the vague familiarity and the vast differences are intriguing and were a little unexpected. I felt very at ease in this little state (yes, it’s approximately the size of Ireland, but it’s all relative, isn’t it?). The landscape was inspiring, and the company was pretty great – no two-headed people to be seen… although, you know, we never did make it right around the island…
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Theme Songs of the Day:
Brainy – The National, form the album Boxer
Messages – Xavier Rudd, from the album
Gone Away From Me – Ray LaMontagne, from the album Till the Sun Turns Black


Olive Picking on the Side of the Road
I’ve been having a tough time finding the inspiration to write and I’m not exactly sure why. Coming back to Perth has given me a sense of well-being that only a few other cities ever have.
I haven’t stopped writing altogether, but the last couple of weeks have proved a difficult lesson in sharing. I’m not able to write for anyone else but me right now….as I say that…mmhh…maybe I can write a little….you know, now that I’m here…
Why not, eh?
One of the reasons I may be having trouble finding any sort of motivation is that I have just celebrated my thirtieth birthday. It was a little bitter-sweet to be entirely honest. Birthdays have always been a priority for Kevin and I. As most of you know, we always planned bbqs, parties, camping trips…fun-filled events - for both of our bdays – it’s always just been an excuse to celebrate. Although it’s exciting to be in another country for the ’big day’, in my heart I am somewhere in between here and home. I don’t know how to explain it…another reason not to write. I’m only able to write around the idea of my feelings. I can’t quite figure it out in my own head, so how do I type it up into a neat little paragraph (or a slightly larger paragraph, in the instance)?
Maybe another excuse for the lack of written word – I’m relaxing a bit. I feel like the shock might be wearing off a little bit. I’m seeing things a little more clearly; I am getting outside everyday and I’m spending more time by myself than I have in years.

Just a nibble
Getting used to the alone thing. I guess we’ve all had to do this at one time or another; a break-up or what have you. There’s something special about eating alone at a restaurant.
With my many hours of quiet time, I am re-learning that everyone is extraordinarily complex. I knew this before, but it has really hit home during this trip. We all have these amazing experiences. Listening to people’s stories and hearing how they work; what goes on in their minds. What music they like, how they get on with their families, why they are where they are…its all so fascinating.
Maybe focusing on other people allows me perspective that I don’t get when I turn inside-out. I am saddest when looking deep into my own heart, but when I get a tiny glimpse of what lays in others’ hearts, I can see, reflected, all that I am going through and all that I’ve been through…just from farther out. I like this perspective best: no magnifying glass necessary.

Jellyfish
Anyway, my time in this city has been wonderful. We’ve been enjoying some great live music. I have a bike.. it’s blue and it’s awesome: a birthday gift from a friend. I have ridden it almost everyday since I got it last week. What a great feeling: riding along the water and looking out into the plain of blue that is the Indian Ocean.
Kim and I have found time to go to the aquarium (AQWA) and the zoo. I am currently a walking encyclopedia of flora and fauna. There are some CRAZY animals out there. My favourite it the Leafy Seadragon. These are absolutely beautiful creatures. They bob gracefully through the water and you would never know they even existed, as they blend in so well with common sea kelp.
Beautiful, unassuming, and complex…. just like us.
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Theme Songs of the Day:
We Are Not Criminals – Matt Gresham (…we saw him live and he has SO much energy!)
Paper Aeroplane – Angus & Julia Stone, from the album Chocolates and Cigarettes
At one point, as the barbed-wire vine ripped into my shin yet-again, I did question my decision to tramp through the unforgiving forest, on a volunteer basis, for hours on end. It was a fleeting thought, but my shins were already pretty banged up and I had just come face to face with the biggest spider I have ever seen…and yes, spiders this big are, indeed, big enough to have distinguishable faces.
I think this one winked at me as I screamed.
I’m not actually scared of spiders, but I challenge you to find me a person that doesn’t scream involuntarily as they feel the web and the spider brush against their eyelashes…yeah, it was quite the Australian experience.
I had been lucky enough to be invited along on a trip to a place called Rainbow Beach (north of Noosa and south of Fraser Island). We were with Conservation Volunteersand we had six days of forest-walking ahead of us. Our mission: locate and destroy the invasive species called bitou (BIT-oo). In total, we covered over 700,000 square meters of Cooloola National Park. This park, along with Fraser Island, makes up the Great Sandy Region, the biggest landmass of sand in the world.
We made our way over fallen debris and hidden sandy holes and we did it all with smiles on our faces (maybe they were grimaces at times?). We were working from a track, out towards the edge of beautiful sandy bluffs (if you haven’t picked up on it – ‘sand’ was very much the theme of the entire trip). These are the cliffs that line the postcards in the souvenir shops. Every other time we completed a line, we were greeted with stunning views of the ocean from 200 meters.

We were working on the cliffs in the background
How many people had actually seen the view of Fraser from this angle? How many people had looked down the cliffs and noticed the bitou that need be removed? How many people knew what bitou was? (note* – probably about 50 of you now!)
The only other time I had done anything remotely resembling this, I was tree-planting back in BC. And although I was being paid good money to plant those blue spruce, I could see the uniqueness in the experience at hand.
I think the hard work was good for me… it helps to clear the mind. I’ve had two months of ‘hard’ travel and I’m guessing a little routine has got to be good for the soul.
As the permanence of my (real-life) situation sets in I can feel the weight of a million thoughts upon my shoulders. They are heavy. The non-permanence of my surroundings helps to keep me balanced. I truly believe this. Although I feel lonely at times, I know I would be even lonelier if left to ponder my thoughts by myself without an ever-changing road ahead of me. I do not want to even imagine what, or how, I would be doing at home right now.
I think I’m going to have to do a bit more with this volunteer work – it’s really great to get my hands dirty (and my knees, and my face, and virtually every inch of my body, in fact).
Conservation Volunteers is a national group with offices scattering the country. There are many opportunities to lend a hand out there. I would recommend the experience to anyone wanting to help and/or experience a different perspective of a local area. I know I could easily be coerced into more than a week of this!
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Theme Songs of the Day:
You’re a Wolf – Sea Wolf, from the album Leaves in the River
Kicking the Heart Out – Rogue Wave, from the album Out of the Shadow
Lola – The Kinks, from the album Lola Versus Powerman & The Moneygoround


Follow the Rusty Red Road
So I had one full day left in Mt. Isa and I think it was extraordinarily well spent: we trekked out into the bush! It was exactly the kind of thing I had pictured when envisioning the arid outback: we were going to look for rocks! It was a guaranteed dusty and dry process and I was very excited, indeed.
Now it’s not too hard to get to the middle of nowhere from Mt. Isa. One can accomplish this by driving in any given direction for any more than ten minutes. This allows you time to pass through the city. Within minutes all that surrounds you are red hills lined with spinifex and some low-lying trees dispersed intermittently around termite mounds (interestingly, I mistook these mounds for rocks when I first saw them – supposedly a common mistake…I wondered why people had bothered to stand hundreds of red rocks on their sides – monolithic art…obelisks du nature?).

The Treasure!
So we had a great plan. We were invited to go looking for Maltese crosses (MCs). These are rock-like crystal formations made of a mineral called staurolite. They form in geometrical diamond-shaped patterns. Every so often the diamond shapes line up and when they form in just the right way an extraordinary cross is born. This symbol is commonly associated with good luck and protection.
There are only a few places in the world these small phenomena are found. We were on our way to find treasure!! (Finally, a way to fund my trip!)
So we loaded up the 4×4 with food and equipment and five of us headed out. We were quite a team. Roy – the Maltese cross expert extraordinaire – was the one who was kind enough to invite us out. He has the knowledge and the equipment to guarantee us finding a least a few of these elusive gems. When he’s not digging in the dirt, he frequents the café where Stacey is employed. He happened to mention this interesting hobby of his to Stacey, earlier in the week. Stacey showed keen interest and knew I would be totally up for it. Her co-worker Lisa happened to have the day off as well. Roy invited a friend of his, Laura, and so we made up a mad team of gung-ho Maltese cross discoverers.

That's as far up as he went!
After about a half hour down the highway we took a discreet turn-off and started on what would be many hours of very bumpy 4X4ing. The novelty of being jostled around wore off after about ten minutes, but we were easily distracted from the incessant rigmarole by the abundance of wildlife we encountered. Roy had this amazing knack for seeing critters from afar and stopping the vehicle at just the right time to get up-close and personal (note the picture of the lizard running up his leg?). We saw a variety of lizards and so many birds – bugs, cows, insects…it was a desert cornucopia. It’s amazing how barren and dry everything looks, but there is this whole ecosystem just waiting to be discovered (especially with the very wet wet-season that had just recently ended). We realized quickly that we had, in Roy, not just a navigator, but a tour-guide as well.
We arrived at Roy’s secret site and each had our turn sifting through the dirt for Maltese Crosses. Beginners’ luck being on my side, I managed to spot an interesting looking rock in the first batch. I found one! I’m told it’s worth at least $10-20! Now that won’t even get me a nice dinner…I had better keep looking.
After a few hours we all managed to find one, although none as big or as square as the first beauty (the more angled type are considered St. Andrew’s Crosses). We celebrated by heading back up the track and indulging in a picnic and a swim. I provided entertainment by stepping in the biggest cow-patty I’ve ever seen…or felt (squishing around my sneakers) for that matter, …I only did it for laughs – one of my gifts…really…
The way back was, I swear, bumpier than the trip in. Roy picked up speed and we all sang along, loudly, to Billy Joel… Piano Man will be forever etched in those little lizards’ little brains, and for that I apologize – but what fun! I would, without question, back Roy in a guided-tour-adventure company if he ever thought to start one up – Outstanding Outback Adventures, or some such title. I would pay good money to be slung through the outback, made to inhale dust, find treasure, and bounced straight into cow patties. Honestly, it was an absolutely awesome way to spend the day.
What an amazing way to cap off my first trip into the inner-heart of the continent. And my, oh my, what a big and beautiful heart it turned out to be!
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Theme Songs of the Day:
Why Worry – Dire Straits, from the album Walk of Life – (This song is specially dedicated to you, dad).
Oh, I’m comfy. I really like the Outback. The only reason I’m okay with leaving this great little city: I get to head back to more great friends on the coast.

The family pet...(the dog!)
Mt. Isa has been a wonderful home-away-from-home. I can’t get over the people…not a bad one in the bunch – everyone’s got a story and I really think they’ve all acquired degrees in “Listening Skills: How to Converse Well in Any Setting”. Every person I’ve sat down with has been not only interesting, but so very interested in me as well! It’s nice to feel special…
So besides an off-day in which I suffered a headache from dawn until dusk, I have made the very most of my extra week here in Mt Isa. We went out dancing at The Irish Club, where, of all things, I was mistaken for Irish!? Now Stacey and I have discussed this in great detail. We are both mistaken for Irish at LEAST once a day. …what’s up with that laddie? Aye, it happens everywhere – all over Oz – even at The Irish Club, where you’d think they’d know their accents! Haha – I’ve actually agreed that I am Irish to a few folks (just for fun) and they nod their heads, confidingly, as though their deeply-routed suspicions are confirmed, and I am immediately acceptable and lovely – of course I usually get this response when I tell the truth about my Canadianism as well. My feeling is that Aussies are just extraordinarily accepting and they would give me a smile and a wink no matter what my nationality may be.

Mary Kathleen, North QLD
I had the pleasure of tagging along with Stacey and Pete to a wonderful engagement party. The event itself was more an extravaganza (set around a beautiful 25′ pool) than a traditional party. The food and drink were great, the couple looked lovely, and everyone had a great time! I was honoured, to not only be allowed to partake in the celebrations, but also welcomed with open arms. Again, the company was of the highest standard, we talked well into the night. I’m only surprised about one thing: no one ended up in the pool!
What else have I been up to? I’ve explored an abandoned uranium mine called Mary Kathleen. It’s just outside of town and just a short drive through the rolling red hills. The mine is now flooded and the water that fills it is the most inviting bright blue I’ve seen. There are only a few hidden signs on the way out there and they indicate that you will glow-in-the-dark if you decide to take a dip (I’m paraphrasing).
Actually, it’s quite interesting – there is still millions of dollars worth of uranium just waiting to be dug up, but it is currently illegal to mine the radioactive element in Queensland. Supposidly there is a push to change legislation. Until then, it remains a tiny blip on the map: a turn off, easily missed, and then an interesting maze-like off-road drive, to a site almost altogether forgotten. We threw rocks into the deep, taking enjoyment in the splashing, but soon stopped when we realized the rocks were shiny…is uranium shiny, we wondered?
A few other highlights – I enjoyed some great coffee with some great women at the McCafe (yes…it’s a cafe attached to McDonalds, and yes, it was good). I had a fun night-time tour of the city in which I enjoyed hearing about the more colourful details surrounding the local history. Mostly I just relaxed and got a better sense of the community. I can’t imagine not coming back… (and yes, I know that’s a double negative, thank you).
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Theme songs of the Day:
Slice of Heaven – herbs, from the album Loyal …(This is a theme song from my entire month with Stacey – it’s on everywhere we go and EVERYONE gets up and dances to it).
My Baby Don’t Care – Nina Simone, from the album Little Girl Blue… (this one is for the Fairmont Gold Team, I sometimes listen to this and pretend I’m in the lounge)
Boston - Augustana, from the album Midwest Skies and Sleepless Mondays

Flooded Lake Moondara - from the wettest season in 10 years or so.
So you may be asking yourselves….”what exactly has Jill been learning on this journey of self-discovery?” Well, I now know that even if you think you’re being nice by letting an overly-helpful, partially senile old man help you with a flat tire – you should probably just take care of it yourself.
So Stacey and I met up last week, here in Brisbane, and we rented ourselves a Jucy Camper-van. These are great vehicles – totally self-contained: bed, fridge, stove..we were all set. We headed South, stopping here and there along the coast, finally to find ourselves in Byron Bay. This is a beautiful town…gorgeous beaches, lots of surfing, cool shops to check out. We had a swim and checked out the nightlife, and although it slowed us down the next day, we had a great time and met lots of interesting people that night.
In the morning we continued South to a small town called Ballina. The scenery was spectacular - lush, green, rolling hills spotted with trees full of large, shockingly bright, purple flowers. We ooh-ed and ahh-ed as we climbed the hills and saw the coast in the distance…. and to cap off a perfect afternoon we found a great sushi place right in the middle of the wee village. Unexpected and Perfect.
That day we made our way back up North, past Brisbane and over to the Sunshine Coast. Lots of driving, through rush hour, but we had some tunes and good conversation to keep us occupied. We hit up a little town called Noosa. This is a favourite spot of Stacey’s and I can see why! We spent a couple of days exploring the beaches and parks.
We headed inland to the Sunshine Coast Hinterlands and explored the many small towns in the area.
We saw the Glass House Mountains which look beautiful, if not slightly out of place in the surrounding countyside.
Although we had planned to camp out in the hinterlands, the ocean called to us. We did some research and found out that even though there was a triathlon happening that weekend, there was space available at a beach-side camp ground in Mooloolaba. Great!
As we entered the little camp ground and I made to back into our reserved spot, an older gentleman appeared out of nowhere. He began directing me… abruptly – with no real words (just aggressive, yet unclear, hand movements). This relatively simple manoever required very little driving skill, yet, somehow it took almost ten minutes. It was hot…I had been driving for hours….I just wanted to park and head to the beach, but this man was really trying to be helpful so we continued to humour him and finally made it into the exact spot we were supposed to be in. It, really was, a fine parking job….sigh.
Thus began our relationship with the old man. He is a permanent resident at the park and although he’s not paid, he helps out by tidying up and directing traffic. His wife told us that about six months ago he decided that one of the trees in the park needed pruning. With no prompting, he climbed the tree and started to cut down the huge pine-cone-like fruit growing from the palm. Well these fruit are, apparently, really heavy; one managed to fall on the poor guy, throwing him from said tree. He broke his hip and was off his feet for months. This is very sad, but I can’t help giggling to myself as I write this. He’s trying so hard to be helpful!
The next day we realized that one of the tires was a little flat. It was a slow leak, if anything ,so we planned to fill the tire up at the local gas station before heading out for the day. Wouldn’t you know it: the old man showed up again – really, as if out of nowhere, and stopped us as we were pulling out. He pulled off the hubcap (we’re not sure why…) and started to fiddle with it. He managed to actually break off a piece of it and then couldn’t replace it. I got it back on and we thanked him for his ‘help’ and tried to get going. He stopped us at the gate and told us he had a pump and would fill the tire up. He hulled out this piece of machinery from WWI (there may have been a mouse and a wheel in there somewhere, I can’t be sure) and hooked it up to the tire. We all stood there watching the tire deflate. It took us a couple of minutes to convince him it wasn’t working…we unhooked the crazy generator gadget and, luckily, had enough air to make it to the gas station. With only 6psi left – we successfully filled it up to the required 34psi and made our way inland to explore. Drama complete.
So we had a good last few days in the area. We made some friends, saw some crazy animals (some of them being the aforementioned new friends) and were awestruck by the beauty that surrounded us. 
It was hard to give the van up yesterday, but we are flying North to the Whittsunday Coast today…off to the next leg of the adventure.
Oh yeah….somehow the hubcap fell off and we were charged $60 by the rental company! Maybe the laughs were worth it.
Wow! I have fallen in love… Perth is just amazing! We have packed so much into three days that is feels like two weeks.
The plane ride over was pretty uneventful. I had a bit of cry on the plane – something about being at 15,000 ft…. it gets me every time. I guess I needed the release, that and it’s been my first alone time since landing. I realize I constantly carry the conflicting emotions of sad, and very, overwhelmingly happy emotions. Where do I go from there? How can I hope to reach these strong levels of emotion again in my lifetime? Will I become more numb as I go? Will I find new levels of both happy and sad? I guess it will change. I will continue to experience life and, hopefully, find new layers of depth; grow older and wiser….
I have the feeling that I have, through the events of the last year and a half, become very attuned to what’s happening around me. I am maybe more sensitive, more empathetic…but in the same breath, I am seeing my life from the outside a little more.
I’m excited to travel, meet new people, connect, experience. I think my challenge will be to figure out how to personally invest in these events and interactions. Don’t get me wrong, when I am talking with someone, I am fully present. I feel like I may be looking through a third person’s eyes. I may be taking refuge in the safety of an ‘outside’ self as a way of self-preservation… I want to connect but I don’t think I have much of myself left to give. The parts that remain must be kept for myself.
I have loved and lost in a VERY extreme way. I am searching for emotions to counter-act my past experiences, no small feat…all this, without giving myself over in any substantial way.
mmhhh….that was a bit of a tangent.
On an entirely different note: my computer has a virus, and until I can clean it up, I have limited time on the Internet. This isn’t so bad is it? A major drawback is that I can’t post pictures…but I will get that sorted in the next week or so and then I will have some visuals to check out.
So what have we done in Perth so far? What haven’twe done?? I arrived at around noon on Tuesday. My friend Kim and I hopped in the van and headed north to her place. WE stopped and one of the countless beaches here on the west coast and I had my first swim in the Indian Ocean. From there we met up with her friend Jenny and drove up the coast to Yanchep National Park. Wrapped around a beautiful lake, this park is home to kangaroos, koalas and birds. We watched as the lazy koalas slept in the trees above us.
We headed back towards the city and stopped at, of all places, the cemetary. Someone in the know had told us to check it out, as there are quite a few kangaroos there and you can actually get pretty close. We saw eight of the grazing on the grass. I hoped along beside them (yes, there ARE pictures). Wow!
We watched the sunset at a beach near Kim and Stu’s house. Amazing
The next day we headed south to a small city called Freemantle. We toured the shops and cafes and then went on a tour through the prison. It was horrifying but fascinating as well. The prison was actually used up until 1991 when they were permanently closed down. At the time of closure they still used buckets for latrines. Something else that we all found amazing is that punishment by whipping was still legal until 1993. It was simply an over-site (the last person that had the experience of the cat o’ nine tails was in 1943). When Western Australia abolished corporal punishment in ’93 they realized that the ‘whipping legislature’ had never been removed. Quite the over-site.
After the gruesome but educational tour, we headed to a local microbrewery called Little Creatures. The venue is an old wearhouse that has been converted to a funky bistro/brewhouse (much like the Canoe Club in Victoria). All us roomates had a great time chatting and eating and then we headed over to Clancy’s Fish Club where we watched the Battle of the Bands: West Coast Blues and Roots. It was a fun night.
The next day found us at the beach. We spent a few hours surfing and then headed home for naps. That evening Kim had a surprise for me: she had tickets for Cirque du Soleil: Dralion...!!! AWESOME!
We dressed up and headed into the blue and yellow tent. The show was phenomenal. I believe we both shed a tear of joy at the end of the performance. It was beautiful and funny and awe-inspiring - I’ve never seen anything like it.
It’s hard to belive I haven’t even been here four full days. The next adventure begins tomorrow as the two of us head South towards Margaret River. We will hit some wineries…beaches….anything and everything, camping along the way….why not? We should all be so lucky to hit anything and everything along the way – that’s what life is all about!
Theme Songs for the day:
OH! OH! OH! Trouble - An Angle, from the album…I’m not sure…
Where is My Mind - Pixies, from the album Surfer Rosa *(and if you haven’t been lucky enough to listen to this song but sort of recognize it – it’s the closing-credit song from Fight Club)







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